Where to Find Sixth-Scale Figure Parts, Bodies & Spares

The first road is the maker. Some makers replace faulty or missing parts through their customer service or through the shop that sold you the figure, usually within a stated period and with proof of purchase. Read the maker’s own policy before assuming anything; it differs by maker and by year, and a figure bought secondhand is often outside it.

The second road is a shop that commonly deals in parts and bodies. The Retailer Directory groups the current stalls recorded with the Accessories & parts and Bodies & sculpts specialties, and the Specialty filter narrows the whole directory the same way. A specialty is a record of what a stall commonly deals in, not a promise that a particular hand is on its shelf today.

The third road is another collector. Figures get parted out: a head sculpt sold loose because someone wanted only the body, a body sold loose because someone wanted only the head. The Bazaar’s LOOKING FOR board lets you name the exact part you need, and marketplaces and forums carry the rest of that trade.

The fourth road is a part that was never in the box: a third-party body, hand set, outfit or stand made to a nominal sixth scale by a maker other than the figure’s own. These can be excellent and they can be wrong by a few millimetres. Nominal scale is a promise about size, not about the peg in the wrist.

Every listing you search should begin with the figure’s exact product code and edition. Hot Toys codes are the clearest example: MMS821 and MMS821B are the same Mister Fantastic with different box contents, and only one of them includes the Special Edition’s extra piece. Searching “Mister Fantastic hand” finds both and tells you nothing about which hand you are buying.

The Archive records the box contents of each release and, where editions are linked, shows which lines differ between them. Read that list before you shop: it tells you the exact name the maker gave the part, how many were in the box, and whether the piece you are missing was ever in your edition at all.

When the part carries a marking, note it. Some bodies and head sculpts are stamped with a code; many hands are not. A seller who can tell you the figure a loose part came from is worth more than a seller with a lower price and a shrug.

On the directory, choose a Specialty to see the current stalls recorded with it, and combine it with Based in and Ships to: a part bought inside your own customs zone avoids the import bill that can double the cost of a small piece. Each profile shows when an Archivist last checked it. The older the check, the more you should confirm before paying.

Accessories & parts means the stall commonly deals in loose accessories and replacement pieces. Bodies & sculpts means it commonly deals in bodies and head sculpts. Aftermarket / secondhand means it commonly deals in used figures. A secondhand stall is where a whole figure turns up; it is not, on its own, a source of spare hands, which is why it sits in the filter and not on the parts shelf.

None of these records is a sighting of a particular part. The directory never says what a shop has on its shelf today. Open the shop’s own listing, read its shipping, fees and returns, and ask about the exact part before you pay.

On a marketplace, the price you see is an asking price. What a part actually sells for is usually lower, and the sold listings are the ones to read. Then add the rest: shipping, which for a small part can cost more than the part; import duties and tax if the seller is outside your customs zone, charged on your side and sometimes with a handling fee from the carrier; and the exchange rate on the day.

The sum is the delivered cost, and it is the only number worth comparing. A loose hand at a bargain asking price from across an ocean can arrive costing more than a complete secondhand figure from the next town. Do the arithmetic before you bid, not after the parcel arrives with a customs slip attached.

Completeness is the hidden cost. A hand set usually means a pair with their pegs; a single hand without its peg is not a set. A loose body without its hands and feet is a torso. Ask what exactly is included, and read the photographs as if the seller had said nothing.

Ask for photographs of both sides of the part, of the peg or joint, and of any marking. Ask which figure it came from, by code. Ask about paint rub, yellowing, loose joints, stretched pegs and cracked sockets, which are the ordinary wounds of a sixth-scale body that has been posed for years.

Treat fit as unproven. The Archive does not assert that one maker’s body takes another maker’s head, or that a peg from one line fits a wrist from another, and no listing should persuade you otherwise without evidence. Where fit matters, ask the seller to confirm the exact figure the part was removed from, or buy from a stall that states its return terms plainly.

If the part is a head sculpt or a whole body sold as the real thing, read the guide to spotting a fake first. Loose parts are where copies are easiest to pass off, because there is no box to compare.

In your Kollectorium Vault, the Kit and the Chests hold loose parts: spare hands, alternate heads, a body kept for a custom, the extra piece from a Special Edition box. A part logged against the figure it belongs to is a part you will find again, and a part logged in a Chest is one you will not buy twice.

When you sell a figure, the same record tells the buyer exactly what is in the box and what is not. The guide to selling a sixth-scale figure takes it from there. You may now go and look under the shelf for the left hand. It is there. It is always there.